Ottawa in All Seasons
By Erin Naef
In 1857, when Montreal, Quebec City, Kingston and Toronto were all vying for the honour of becoming the seat of Canada's government, Queen Victoria settled the dispute by choosing Ottawa instead. From that day to this, Ottawa has been dubbed, by some, as an example of the “great Canadian compromise.” Visitors soon discover, however, that there is nothing about this vibrant, accessible city that even suggests a settling for less.
Ottawa is more than a place to pose in front of Parliament, wearing a Mountie hat purchased at a local souvenir shop (though I must confess I have pictures of myself doing exactly that).
The city, nestled between the Ottawa and Rideau Rivers in convenient proximity to both Toronto and Montreal, offers an abundance of parks, green space and opportunities to enjoy the outdoors. Get out on the water with Nepean Sailing Club's Able Sail Program (advance notice is preferable; call (613) 828-1081), or spend a day wheeling the city's many paved, accessible bike paths along one of the capital's most prominent geographical features: the Rideau Canal.
The canal, completed in 1832 – after many of the workers had died of malaria contracted from mosquitoes in the swamps – is both a tragedy and a triumph in Ottawa’s history. Meant to serve as a safe supply route between Montreal and Kingston, it was never used as originally intended. Yet today, the 7.8 kilometres of the canal that run through Ottawa, from Parliament Hill to Hog's Back Falls, are an invaluable recreational resource and economic boost for the city.
In fact, the canal is a central component of many of the more well-known events and festivals that draw people to the capital every year. Over the winter months, for example, it becomes the longest outdoor skating rink in the world, and the heart of Winterlude, Ottawa's not-to-be-missed, beat-the-cold February festival, complete with ice sculptures, stew cook-offs and snowman-building competitions. Wheelchair users can access the frozen canal from a ramp behind the National Arts Centre (NAC).
In May, as the site for a flotilla and Parade of Lights culminating at Dow's Lake, the Rideau Canal shares centre-stage with the thousands of tulips that are sent from the Netherlands every year, blooming along its length and all over the city as part of the Canadian Tulip Festival. The festival is an annual celebration of friendship between Holland and Canada, and a symbol of the gratitude the Dutch bear towards Ottawa for sheltering their royal family during World War II. Princess Margriet was actually born in Ottawa; a wing of the Ottawa Civic Hospital was temporarily declared Dutch soil so that she could be born a Dutch citizen.
Boat cruises on the canal and the Ottawa River, which separates Quebec and Ontario, are available throughout the Tulip Festival and the summer months, and are accessible with minimal assistance (call Paul’s Boat Lines at (613) 225-6781 for information).
Of course, you can plan your visit around a myriad of other festivals and events that take place in Ottawa throughout the year and are not connected to the canal. Take your pick, from food festivals hosted by the many diverse ethnic communities that call Ottawa home, such as the Lebanese Fun Fest in July and Greekfest in August, to an array of literary, film and music festivals to suit every taste. I’m a devotee of our storytelling and writing festivals, and the Folk Festival in beautiful Britannia Park has also become an annual tradition for me. Ottawa's National Arts Centre, meanwhile, satisfies cravings for high culture, offering live theatre, ballet, opera and performances by the NAC orchestra.
Options for rainy day plans during your stay include any one of the city’s dozen museums and galleries, all of which are very accessible. Many have programs particularly sensitive to people with disabilities. A phone call ion advance to ask about and request these services is advisable.
While Ottawa is certainly more than just a government town, don't miss the chance to explore the workings of Canadian parliament, and the beautiful buildings that house that parliament. If you are coming to Canada's capital, plan to spend an hour or two on Parliament Hill, where thousands celebrate Canada Day every year. The grounds are lovely, and a guide will gladly introduce you to their many statues, as well as the Whistling Wall and the famous cat sanctuary at the back of the Hill – also arguably the best place to view sunsets in Ottawa.
Free daily tours of Parliament's central block, which may include the Senate, the House of Commons and the Hall of Honour, are available from May to September. It is worthwhile tagging along, if not for your guide's enthusiastically delivered slice of history, politics and patriotism, then certainly, in this bookworm's opinion, for a glimpse into one awe-inspiring library!
Various disability-related needs can be accommodated on these tours, although advance notice is requested for those other than mobility issues. A sign language interpreter can be provided if you call (613) 996-0896 at least a week ahead of time.
For wheelchairs users, the tours are fully accessible. It is even possible to get up to the Peace Tower, built in honour of Canadian men and women who gave their lives in war. The wait to go to the top can be long, though, and from wheelchair height, I find it hard to get a full sense of the view, which is dependent on the weather anyway.
To my mind, your best bet is to skip the Peace Tower line altogether and opt instead to pay your respects at the recently erected Aboriginal War Veterans Memorial outside Confederation Park on Elgin Street, or the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, at the base of the impressive National War Memorial that rises above the intersection of Elgin and Wellington Streets. Royalty, foreign dignitaries and ambassadors have laid wreaths here. And there is nothing quite like Remembrance Day in Ottawa, when people of all ages and backgrounds move up the street, quietly carrying their respect to the ceremony at the monument.
Within walking distance of Parliament Hill you will find the Byward Market. Also known for its lively pubs and nightlife, this area is an all-season farmer’s market during the day, with row upon row of fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers – or Christmas trees, wreaths, maple syrup and firewood. Weather permitting, patio dining is the thing to do here. There are lots of restaurants to choose from, and many are accessible (though some only if you stay on the patio and don’t need to use the facilities!). Two sure bets for full access are Oreganos and The Blue Cactus.
When it comes to getting around the city during your visit, you have a number of options to choose from. Our parallel transit system, ParaTranspo, is available to visitors, especially, but not exclusively, if you are registered in a similar service in your hometown. There are also many low-floor buses on the roads in Ottawa, but they are not on every route, so be sure to check the schedule before you travel. It is now possible, too, to call any of the three main cab companies in the city – Capital, Westway, or Blue Line Taxi – and request accessible cabs.
Accessible accommodation in the capital is readily available as well. Most downtown hotels offer at least a few rooms tailored to guests with disabilities, but it is a good idea to call the hotel first to make sure that the accommodations meet your specific needs. The high end of accommodation in Ottawa, should you crave a little luxury, is the Fairmont Château Laurier Hotel. It has seven accessible rooms, at a rate of about $229 a night. Of course, if that is slightly over budget, you can always skip the room and just treat yourself to the Château’s Sunday High Tea while you are in town!
Queen Victoria would surely be pleased today to see that her chosen capital has become a place rich in culture, history and natural beauty – and is accessible to all.
(Erin Naef is a freelance writer living in Ottawa, Ontario.)
IF YOU GO
General Information
National Capital Commission
(613) 239-5000
Ottawa-Carleton Independent Living Centre
(613) 236-2558
Ottawakiosk Virtual Information Kiosk
www.ottawakiosk.com
Ottawa Tourism and Convention Authority
www.tourottawa.org
Festivals
Winterlude / Bal de Neige
www.canadascapital.gc.ca/winterlude
Canadian Tulip Festival
www.tulipfestival.ca
Ottawa Festivals
www.ottawa-festivals.com
Museums and Galleries
National Gallery of Canada
www.national.gallery.ca
Canada’s Parliament Website
www.parl.gc.ca
Click on Visitor Information.
See above Ottawa tourism sites for more museum and gallery listings.
Where to Eat
Oreganos
74 George St.
(613) 241-5100
The Blue Cactus
2 Byward Market
(613) 241-7061
Transportation
ParaTranspo
(613) 244-7272
www.octranspo.com
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